When I first decided to start a backyard flock, I faced a fundamental choice: should I begin with a batch of fluffy, peeping chicks or jump right to the egg-laying stage by purchasing adult hens? This is the first major decision every new chicken keeper faces, and the choice you make will significantly shape your entire first year of chicken keeping. In the world of backyard poultry, the question “what comes first, the hen or the chick?” is a very real one with significant consequences.
This guide will break down the pros, cons, costs, and time commitments of each path to help you make the best choice for your situation.
The Case for Starting with Baby Chicks
Starting with chicks is an incredibly rewarding experience that allows you to bond with your flock from day one, but it requires a significant amount of hands-on care and attention to detail during their most fragile stage of life.
Pros of Starting with Chicks
The Bonding Experience: Raising chicks from a few days old is a hands-on, daily process that creates an unmatched bond between you and your flock. The chickens will be tamer, friendlier, and more trusting of you as they grow up knowing you as their caretaker. This is especially true for docile heritage breeds like Orpingtons or Silkies, which are known for their gentle temperament. You get to witness their entire lifecycle, from a tiny ball of fluff to a full-fledged egg-laying hen.
Known History & Health: When you purchase chicks from a reputable hatchery, you have complete control over their environment, feed, and healthcare from the very beginning. This gives you peace of mind that your flock is starting with a clean bill of health, free from any hidden diseases or parasites that could jeopardize the entire flock.
Wider Breed Selection: Ordering chicks from a hatchery gives you access to a huge variety of breeds, including rare or specialty ones that may not be available locally from a feed store like Tractor Supply.
Lower Upfront Cost: Chicks are significantly cheaper to purchase per bird, often costing just a few dollars each compared to the much higher price of an adult hen. This allows you to build a larger flock for less money initially.
Cons of Starting with Chicks
The Brooder Phase: Chicks require a special indoor setup called a brooder for their first 6-8 weeks. This means setting up a box or tub with proper bedding, a heat lamp to keep the temperature at 95°F for the first week (decreasing by 5° weekly), and constant monitoring. Is it hard to raise baby chicks? It’s not difficult, but it is very time-intensive and requires vigilance, especially in the first few weeks.
They are Fragile: Chicks are highly susceptible to illness and injury. A sudden drop in temperature can be fatal, and a chick can get chilled or overheat if you are not careful. They can also suffer from common ailments like pasting up, where droppings block their vent, which requires immediate and gentle cleaning to prevent death.
The Long Wait for Eggs: The most significant drawback is the long wait. You will not get your first egg for 4-6 months, a period of all care and no reward. For a beginner whose primary goal is farm-fresh eggs, this can be a test of patience.
The Rooster Surprise: Unless you purchase “sexed” pullets (female chicks), you risk getting an accidental rooster in your “straight run” (unsexed) batch from a feed store. Roosters can be noisy and are often not allowed in urban areas, and you might be wondering if you even need a rooster to get eggs.
The brooder phase is the most critical part of raising chicks. Next, let’s explore exactly what’s needed to set up a safe and successful brooder.
The Essential Brooder Setup
To keep your fragile chicks safe and healthy, you need to provide a controlled environment that mimics a mother hen. The four key components of a brooder are:
- The Container: You need a container that is draft-free and easy to clean. A large plastic tote, a cardboard box, or a galvanized metal tub can all work. Make sure the walls are high enough that the chicks can’t escape.
- Bedding: Use absorbent bedding like pine shavings. Do not use newspaper, which is too slippery, or cedar shavings, which can be toxic. Change the bedding frequently to keep the area clean and prevent the buildup of bacteria.
- Heat Source: A heat lamp with a red bulb is the most common heat source. Place it at one end of the brooder to create a temperature gradient. This allows the chicks to move closer to the heat or further away as they need to regulate their body temperature.
- Feed and Water: Provide a chick-sized feeder and a clean waterer. Make sure the waterer is shallow enough to prevent drowning. A high-protein “chick starter feed” is essential for their rapid growth. Once your chicks are fully feathered out and are ready to transition from the brooder, they can be moved to their final coop.
The Case for Starting with Adult Hens
Buying adult hens is the fast-track to fresh eggs, offering instant gratification and skipping the delicate brooder phase, but it comes with its own set of risks and challenges, especially when it comes to flock dynamics.
Pros of Starting with Adult Hens
Instant Eggs: This is the biggest benefit. When you buy hens at point of lay or a little older, you can get fresh eggs within days or weeks of bringing them home.
Hardier & Less Work: Adult hens are fully feathered and have a more developed immune system, making them much more resilient to temperature changes and minor stressors. They can be moved directly into a secure coop and do not need a special setup.
Gender is Guaranteed: When you buy a hen, you know what you’re getting. There is no risk of a surprise rooster, which is a major bonus for urban keepers.
Cons of Starting with Adult Hens
Biosecurity Risk & Unknown History: This is the biggest drawback of buying from a source like Craigslist or a local farm. You have no way of knowing a hen’s health history. She could be a carrier for diseases like Marek’s Disease or parasites without showing symptoms. This is why a 30-day quarantine is a non-negotiable step to protect any existing flock you may have.
Integration Challenges: Chickens have a strict social order called the pecking order. Introducing a new hen can be a difficult process that can lead to fighting, stress, and injury. This is one of the most common mistakes every first-time chicken keeper makes. The existing flock may pick on the new hen, denying her access to food or water.
Higher Cost: Adult hens often cost significantly more per bird, sometimes $25-$50 depending on the breed, age, and location. This can be a significant investment, especially if you want a larger flock.
Limited Availability & Breed Choice: It can be hard to find adult hens for sale, and you’re limited to what’s available locally. You won’t have the vast selection of breeds that a hatchery provides.
Given the risks involved with adult hens, let’s explore the crucial steps you must take to protect your new flock.
The Crucial 30-Day Quarantine
Biosecurity is the practice of preventing the spread of disease. When you buy a new chicken, you are introducing a potential biosecurity risk to your flock. You must quarantine all new birds for at least 30 days. This means:
- Separate Housing: Place the new bird in a completely separate area from your existing flock. This housing must have its own food, water, and bedding. Do not share any equipment.
- Health Observation: During the 30 days, watch the new hen closely for any signs of illness, such as coughing, sneezing, lethargy, or pale combs. If she shows any symptoms, seek veterinary advice immediately.
- Personal Hygiene: Always handle the new bird last. Wash your hands, change your clothes, and clean your boots after caring for the quarantined bird to avoid transferring any potential pathogens to your healthy flock.
A Step-by-Step Guide to Flock Integration
Even after a successful quarantine, you can’t simply drop a new hen into your established flock. Here is a proven method for introducing them slowly:
- The Fenceline Method: Place the quarantined hen’s temporary coop or a separate wire enclosure next to the main coop’s run. This allows the flocks to see each other and get used to their presence without physical contact. Do this for at least a week.
- Supervised Free-Ranging: After a week, let both flocks out for free-ranging at the same time, but under close supervision. The space will help diffuse any potential conflicts.
- Nighttime Integration: Once the hens seem to tolerate each other, try putting the new hen on the roosting bar after dark when the chickens are sleepy. This will allow her to wake up with the flock without a confrontational introduction. Continue to monitor them closely for a few days to ensure the integration is successful.
A Deeper Dive into the Costs
While chicks are cheaper, the full upfront cost of starting with them is higher. Here is a breakdown of the expenses for each path.
The True Cost of Starting with Chicks
- Chicks: $3-$7 per chick.
- Brooder Setup: $30-$100+ (depending on what you have). This includes a container, a heat lamp, feeder, and waterer.
- Chick Starter Feed: $20-$30 for a bag.
- Total Initial Cost: $50-$140+ (not including the final coop).
The True Cost of Starting with Adult Hens
- Hens: $25-$50 per hen.
- Quarantine Coop: $20-$100.
- Layer Feed: $20-$30 for a bag.
- Total Initial Cost: $65-$180+ (not including the final coop).
While the per-bird cost of a chick is lower, the total initial setup cost is often comparable to or even more than that of a hen, as you need to invest in dedicated brooder equipment.
At a Glance: A Side-by-Side Comparison
| Feature | Starting with Chicks | Starting with Adult Hens |
|---|---|---|
| Time to First Egg | 4-6 Months | Immediate (days to weeks) |
| Upfront Cost | Low ($3-$7 per chick) | High ($25-$50 per hen) |
| Initial Workload | High (Brooder setup) | Low (Move into coop) |
| Health Risk | Low (Known history) | High (Unknown history) |
| Bonding | Excellent | Fair to Poor |
| Breed Choice | Excellent | Very Limited |
Answering Your Other Beginner Questions
How many chickens should a beginner start with?
I generally recommend starting with 3-6 chickens. Chickens are social animals and need to be in a flock to thrive, so starting with at least three is essential for their well-being. This number also provides enough eggs for a small family without being overwhelming to care for.
What age can you put chicks with adult hens?
This is all about size and safety. Never put small, unfeathered chicks in with a flock of adults. The rule of thumb is to wait until your young birds, often called pullets, are fully feathered out and are of a similar size to the adults (usually around 16-18 weeks old). Even then, you must introduce them slowly by letting them see each other through a fence first to prevent fighting. This is a key part of knowing the best age to start raising chickens. This process, known as flock integration, can take several weeks and requires patience and close observation.
Where can I buy adult hens?
You can often find adult hens for sale on platforms like Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, or through local farm stores and breeder groups. However, when buying this way, you have no way of knowing the hen’s age, health, or history. It’s often safer to buy from a reputable local farm that can show you their flock’s history and health records.
Conclusion: So, Which Path Should You Choose?
The decision to start with chicks or adult hens comes down to a core trade-off: chicks offer a rewarding experience and control over their health, while hens offer speed and convenience.
- Start with Chicks if: You want the full bonding experience, have the time and space for the brooder phase, and want a specific breed.
- Start with Adult Hens if: Your primary goal is eggs as fast as possible, you are nervous about the fragility of chicks, and you have a solid quarantine plan to mitigate the risk of disease.
I hope this guide has made your first big decision an easier one! Which path are you leaning towards—chicks or hens? Share your choice in the comments below!
Oladepo Babatunde is the founder of ChickenStarter.com. He is a backyard chicken keeper and educator who specializes in helping beginners raise healthy flocks, particularly in warm climates. His expertise comes from years of hands-on experience building coops, treating common chicken ailments, and solving flock management issues. His own happy hens are a testament to his methods, laying 25-30 eggs weekly.
