How to Keep a Chicken Coop From Smelling: Natural Deodorizers, DIY Solutions & Expert Tips (2025 Guide)

There’s nothing quite like the pleasant sound of a happy flock in the morning, but a pungent, eye-watering smell can quickly ruin the experience. If you’ve ever walked out to your chicken run and been hit by a strong, acrid odor, you know what I’m talking about.

Remember that time you forgot to clean the coop before a weekend away and the smell hit you when you came back? The most common culprit is ammonia, and it’s a serious issue that goes beyond just an unpleasant smell.

I’ve been keeping chickens for years, and in my experience, a good coop management strategy is the secret to a healthy flock and a peaceful coexistence with your neighbors. This guide will show you exactly how to keep a chicken coop from smelling by covering everything from the science behind the stink to tried-and-true DIY solutions and expert tips that I’ve used myself.

We’ll tackle homemade chicken coop deodorizer recipes, compare the best commercial products, and give you a comprehensive plan to keep your coop and run fresh, naturally and effectively. For a broader look at chicken health, check out our guide on how to perform a chicken health check.

What Causes Chicken Coop Odors and Why It Matters

Before you can fix a problem, you have to understand it. The truth is, the smell in a chicken coop isn’t just from chicken poop—it’s from the ammonia gas (NH3​) that’s released when bacteria break down uric acid in the droppings.

Chicken manure is naturally high in nitrogen, and when this nitrogen combines with moisture and anaerobic bacteria, it forms a potent, harmful gas.

A strong ammonia smell is more than just a nuisance; it’s a health risk. Prolonged exposure can lead to respiratory problems in chickens, including decreased lung function and susceptibility to diseases. For us, a foul odor signals an environment that’s not just unpleasant, but potentially dangerous.

A clean coop is a healthy coop, and knowing how to get rid of a bad smell from a poultry farm starts with controlling these core factors: moisture, ventilation, and the nitrogen-to-carbon ratio of your bedding.

The Chemical Reaction Behind the Stink

Chicken droppings are about 85% water and contain a lot of uric acid, which is an extremely concentrated form of nitrogen.

When this uric acid comes into contact with the moisture in the coop and bedding, it provides the perfect breeding ground for bacteria. These bacteria then go to work, breaking down the uric acid into ammonia gas, which is what gives the coop its characteristic pungent smell.

Without proper management, this process of anaerobic decomposition can happen very quickly due to a lack of oxygen for the beneficial microbes, especially in warm, humid weather. The key to odor control is to manage the microbial activity to favor beneficial aerobic bacteria, which don’t produce a smell.

The Critical Role of Ventilation and Moisture Control

Proper ventilation is your first and best defense against ammonia buildup. It allows fresh air to enter and stale, ammonia-laden air to exit. Think of it as a natural air exchange system.

As Dr. Maurice Pitesky, a poultry veterinarian at UC Davis, notes, “Ammonia can cause contact injuries and secondary infections.” He adds that humans can smell ammonia at 20 ppm, “but ammonia can cause respiratory damage at 5 ppm” in chickens. This highlights just how important it is to control the problem before it’s even noticeable to you.

For effective ventilation, consider these key design elements:

• Cross-Ventilation: Design your coop with windows and vents on opposite walls to create a natural draft. This is the most effective way to ensure a constant flow of fresh air. For more on this, read about the 17 coop ventilation mistakes that overheat your flock.
• Strategic Vent Placement: This is crucial to provide fresh air without creating a harmful draft, which is a cold, direct stream of air that can chill your birds.To avoid a draft, all vents should be placed well above your bird’s highest roosting point. This placement is crucial because ammonia is lighter than air and rises naturally, allowing it to escape the coop rather than building up and causing respiratory issues for your chickens.This design choice prevents a “noticeable breeze” from directly chilling your flock while still ensuring proper air exchange.
• Ventilation Calculations: A good rule of thumb is to have approximately 1/5 of the total wall space as ventilation (this includes windows and vents). For example, a 10-foot wall would need about 2 feet of distributed ventilation openings. For warm weather, a coop also requires 1 square foot of ventilation per 10 square feet of coop floor space.In cold weather, you’ll need approximately 3-4 square feet of total ventilation, including the pop door. You can add more ventilation for hot weather through windows, vents, and doors. For example, for a 10’x10′ coop with 25 chickens, you’ll need a minimum of 6 square feet of ventilation in winter and up to 14 square feet in the summer.
• Consider Your Flock’s Habits: The amount of ventilation needed is directly related to how much time your chickens spend in the coop. If your chickens are free-ranging for a significant portion of the day and only use the coop for sleeping and laying eggs, you’ll need less ventilation because they are spending less time inside producing waste.However, if your chickens are primarily confined to the coop and run due to weather or predators, you’ll need to aim for the higher end of the ventilation recommendations to compensate for the higher density of droppings and moisture.
• Elevated Coop: Elevating the coop off the ground is a simple but highly effective strategy. This improves under-coop airflow, which helps to reduce moisture on the coop floor and keep the bedding dry.
• Ample Space: Overcrowding is a major cause of odor because it concentrates waste. To prevent this, ensure you have a minimum of 3-4 square feet per bird inside the coop and 10-15 square feet per bird in the run.These generous space requirements are critical for effective odor control and reducing ammonia buildup.
• Keeping Water Outside: A simple but highly effective strategy is to keep all waterers completely outside the coop. This prevents moisture from spills and splashing inside, which is a primary catalyst for ammonia production.
• Pull-Out Trays: A very practical feature, pull-out trays under roosting bars make daily cleaning much easier and help remove the primary source of odor before it has a chance to build up.

Monitoring Humidity with a Hygrometer

While you can smell ammonia, humidity is a key factor in its creation, and you can’t smell it. A hygrometer is an inexpensive and essential tool that gives you a measurable way to track the air quality in your coop.

When humidity is high, it creates the perfect breeding ground for the bacteria that produce ammonia gas.

• What to Aim For: The ideal relative humidity for a chicken coop is below 50%. If the humidity level climbs above this, it’s a clear sign that you need to increase your ventilation to prevent odor and respiratory issues.
• How to Use: Place a simple digital hygrometer inside the coop, away from direct sunlight and water. Check it daily, especially in the mornings, when humidity is often at its highest. If the reading is consistently above 50%, increase the amount of fresh air entering the coop by opening more vents or adding a fan.

Types of Ventilation Systems

To provide a consistent and healthy airflow, you can incorporate various types of ventilation into your coop’s design:

• Gable-End Ventilation: Position vents near the roof peak on either end to promote natural convection. As hot, stale air rises, it exits through these vents, which maintains a constant fresh air flow while preventing moisture buildup.
• Under-Eave Ventilation: The strategic placement of openings beneath the coop’s eaves protects them from rain and snow. This design also leverages natural wind patterns for efficient airflow.
• Removable Flaps or Panels: These allow maximum airflow during mild or hot weather but can be secured during harsh conditions. This provides flexibility while maintaining necessary ventilation year-round.
• Wind Turbine Ventilation: A wind turbine mounted on the coop roof uses the power of the wind to create suction. As the spinning blades remove stale air from the coop, it draws fresh air in through lower openings. Note that this system only works when wind is present.

Mechanical Ventilation Systems

For large coops, barn conversions, or when natural airflow is insufficient, mechanical ventilation can provide a consistent and controlled environment. These systems are especially valuable in climates with extreme temperatures where you need to balance fresh air with heat retention.

• Exhaust Fans: These fans are a primary component of mechanical systems. For a dusty coop environment, you’ll need fans specifically designed for agricultural use, as they can withstand harsh conditions.They work by drawing stale, ammonia-laden air out of the coop, creating negative pressure that pulls fresh air in through designated inlets. You can use a timer or a thermostat to automate the system, ensuring optimal air quality around the clock.
• Heat Exchangers and Air Exchange Systems: In extreme cold, simply exhausting warm air can lead to high heating costs or a dangerously cold environment for your chickens. Heat exchangers, also known as ventilation heat recovery units, are an advanced solution for these situations.They work by capturing the heat from the outgoing stale air and transferring it to the incoming fresh air. This process ensures that your coop is receiving a constant supply of fresh air without a significant loss of warmth, providing a healthy environment and saving on heating costs.These systems are most commonly seen in commercial poultry operations but can be a worthwhile investment for large-scale hobby farms in very cold climates.

The Importance of Regular Ventilation Maintenance

Whether you use passive or mechanical ventilation, a common mistake is neglecting to maintain the openings. In a dusty environment like a chicken coop, dust and dander can quickly build up on hardware cloth, vents, and fan blades, severely restricting airflow.

This can turn a perfectly designed ventilation system into an ineffective one over time.

To prevent this, make it a habit to check and clean all ventilation openings monthly. Simply use a stiff brush or a vacuum to remove any buildup from the wire mesh and vent covers. For fans, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for cleaning. This simple, proactive step ensures your coop’s air exchange system remains functional and effective at preventing odor.

Predator Protection: The Non-Negotiable Step

While air circulation is key, it’s useless if it compromises your flock’s safety. Every single vent, window, or opening in your coop—no matter how small—must be covered with a strong predator-proof wire mesh.

• Use the Right Material: Don’t use flimsy chicken wire. Predators can easily chew through it.Instead, opt for hardware cloth or welded wire mesh with a maximum opening size of 1/2 inch. This small size is crucial for keeping out determined predators like raccoons, weasels, and even snakes.
• Secure It Tightly: Use screws or heavy-duty staples to fasten the hardware cloth securely. Check for any gaps or loose edges that a predator could exploit. A well-ventilated coop is only a good coop if it’s also a safe one.

Common Ventilation Mistakes to Avoid

Many chicken keepers underestimate the amount of ventilation needed. A common mistake is to rely on a few small, round vents.

In fact, you would need almost 50 small 1-2 inch circular holes to equal just one square foot of ventilation, and most coops require much more than that. The best ventilation comes from large, open windows or vents that allow for a high volume of air exchange. For larger coops or barn conversions, you may need to consider mechanical ventilation.

This can be achieved with fans designed for dusty environments, ensuring constant airflow regardless of wind. For coops without electricity, there are also solar-powered fans available.

Moisture is the catalyst for the entire process. Without moisture, the bacteria can’t thrive and convert uric acid into ammonia. This is why keeping the coop dry is so critical.

This includes everything from preventing rain from getting into the coop to quickly removing any spilled water from feeders. The right bedding material will also play a huge role in moisture absorption.

Choosing the Right Bedding to Absorb and Deodorize

The type of bedding you use is a make-or-break factor in odor control. You need a material that is highly absorbent and rich in carbon to balance the high nitrogen content of chicken droppings.

This creates a healthy nitrogen-to-carbon ratio, which promotes beneficial composting rather than smelly ammonia production.

I once tried using cedar shavings because they smelled so nice at the feed store, but I quickly realized it was a big mistake—they’re not absorbent enough and can even cause respiratory issues in chickens.

• Bedding Dust and Ventilation: The amount of dust a bedding material produces directly impacts the amount of ventilation you need. Fine sawdust and dusty wood pellets can create more airborne particulates, which can irritate your flock’s respiratory systems.Therefore, if you use a dustier bedding, you must ensure you have more robust ventilation to clear the air.Less dusty options, like hemp bedding or large-flake pine shavings, are excellent choices because they improve air quality and reduce the risk of respiratory issues.
• Pine Shavings: These are my go-to. They are inexpensive, highly absorbent, and have a pleasant scent that helps mask odors naturally. Just be sure to use large-flake shavings, as the finer sawdust can cause respiratory irritation.
• Chopped Straw: Another excellent carbon-rich choice. It composts well and provides good insulation in the winter.
• Sand: While sand doesn’t absorb moisture, it allows droppings to dry out quickly, which prevents the ammonia-producing bacteria from doing their work. Sand is easy to sift and clean, but it can be heavy to replace.
• Wood Pellets: These are great for absorbing moisture but can create a very dusty environment once they break down, so they are best used as a base layer underneath other bedding materials.

By understanding the root causes of odor, you’ve taken the first step toward a fresher coop. Now, let’s dive into the most effective natural and homemade solutions to tackle the problem head-on.

How to Keep a Chicken Coop From Smelling Natural – Proven Methods

Using natural ingredients is my preferred way to manage coop odors. They are non-toxic, eco-friendly, and often more cost-effective than commercial alternatives.

How to Make Your Own Coop Refresher

Making your own coop deodorizer is a simple, cost-effective way to keep your flock’s home smelling fresh. This recipe uses natural ingredients that help absorb moisture, neutralize odors, and even provide some pest control.

Ingredients:

• 2 cups baking soda
• 2 cups diatomaceous earth (food-grade)
• 2 cups agricultural lime
• 10 drops lavender essential oil (optional)

Step-by-Step Instructions:

1. Gather Your Ingredients: Assemble all ingredients in a large, clean bucket or container.
2. Combine the Dry Mix: Pour the baking soda, diatomaceous earth, and agricultural lime into the container. The baking soda and agricultural lime are both effective at pH neutralization, which creates a less favorable environment for the bacteria that produce ammonia.
3. Add Essential Oil (Optional): If you choose to add the essential oil, drop it into the mixture. The lavender oil provides a pleasant, calming scent and also acts as a natural insect repellent.
4. Mix Thoroughly: Using a spoon or scoop, mix the ingredients until they are evenly distributed. Ensure there are no clumps.
5. Store It: Transfer the powder to a sealable container. This will keep it dry and potent.

To use, simply sprinkle a thin layer of the powder over soiled areas of your coop bedding daily.

What to Spray a Chicken Coop With – DIY Formulas

One of my favorite methods is a simple essential oil spray. It’s not a cover-up; it’s a genuine cleaning and refreshing agent.

• The Recipe: In a spray bottle, combine 1 cup of white vinegar with 1 cup of water. Add 10-15 drops of lavender, peppermint, or citronella essential oil.Peppermint is great for repelling flies, while lavender offers a pleasant, calming scent. For more information on this, check out our guide on how to repel flies.
• How to Apply: After you’ve spot-cleaned the coop, lightly mist the roosts and bedding. This helps break down leftover organic matter and leaves a fresh scent without harming your flock.The acetic acid in the vinegar is a mild disinfectant that helps sanitize surfaces, while the essential oils have natural antibacterial and insect-repelling properties.

Natural Herb Deodorizers

Herbs are a fantastic, natural way to both make your coop smell better and provide some beneficial properties for your flock. Many common herbs contain antimicrobial compounds and act as natural insect repellents.

You can use them fresh or dried.

• Lavender: Not only does lavender smell wonderful, but it also has calming properties and is a natural antibacterial agent.
• Mint Varieties: Mints are an excellent deterrent for flies and other insects. The strong, refreshing scent helps to mask odors.
• Rosemary: This herb contains antimicrobial properties that help to inhibit the growth of bacteria, which in turn reduces odor.
• Lemongrass: A powerful insect repellent, lemongrass can help keep flies and mosquitoes away from the coop.

You can apply these herbs in a few ways. You can hang fresh bundles of herbs in the coop, or you can mix dried herbs directly into the bedding or nesting boxes.

The chickens will often enjoy scratching through the herbs, which naturally distributes them throughout the coop. For more ways to keep parasites out, read our guide on natural ways to keep parasites out of your coop.

The Deep Litter Method – A Game Changer

For a long-term, low-maintenance solution, consider the Deep Litter Method. This method is only suitable for winter or colder climates because the composting process generates significant heat, helping to keep your flock warm.

Instead of removing all the bedding, you add fresh, carbon-rich material on top of the old litter as it becomes soiled. This creates a compost pile right in your coop.

• How it Works: The beneficial microbes in the litter begin to break down the droppings. This process creates heat, which keeps the coop warmer in winter, and composts the waste right in place.According to the University of Tennessee Institute of Agriculture, “providing adequate ventilation helps maintain good litter conditions and allows birds to work the litter by scratching, which aerates and increases the litter porosity, thereby keeping the litter loose and friable which prevents cake formation, accelerating the release of water.”This natural aeration is key to the deep litter method’s success.
• Getting Started: Start with a minimum base layer of 3-4 inches of a small-particle material like pine shavings for optimal moisture absorption. Then, add a large-particle top layer like chopped straw. This creates a balanced environment for composting. Add a light dusting of your DIY deodorizer powder or a probiotic-based product.
• Maintenance: Every few days, use a rake to turn the litter and aerate it. When the top looks soiled, simply add a new layer of fresh bedding. By the end of the season, you’ll have nutrient-rich compost that can be used in your garden. This method is incredibly effective at eliminating odors and reducing your workload.

Composting End-Use: From Coop Waste to Garden Gold

The best part of the Deep Litter Method is that it turns a potential problem into a valuable resource. The composted coop bedding is a nutrient-dense fertilizer, rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium—the three primary nutrients plants need to thrive.

When the season is over and you’re ready to clean out the coop, you’ll be left with a bounty of “black gold” for your garden.

This finished compost can be used in several ways:

• Soil Amendment: Work the compost directly into your garden beds to improve soil structure, water retention, and nutrient content.
• Top Dressing: Spread a layer of compost around the base of plants and trees to provide a slow-release fertilizer and suppress weeds.
• Compost Tea: Brew the compost in a bucket of water to create a nutrient-rich liquid fertilizer that you can use to water your plants. This is a great way to give your seedlings and container plants a quick boost.

Turning your coop waste into compost closes the loop on a sustainable chicken-keeping system, benefiting both your flock and your garden.

What is the Best Deodorizer for Chicken Coop – Product Reviews

While I love DIY, there are some great commercial products on the market. They often contain a combination of natural materials designed for specific issues. Here’s a quick comparison of some popular options:

Product Name	Key Ingredients	Pros	Cons
Sweet PDZ Coop Refresher	Natural Zeolite (Clinoptilolite)	Highly effective at absorbing ammonia, long-lasting	More expensive per pound
Sweet PDZ Horse Stall Refresher	Natural Zeolite (Clinoptilolite)	Identical ingredients to the coop version but offers approximately 60% better value per pound. ($16.99 for 25 lbs)	Comes in a larger bag that might be more than you need for a small flock
Coop Recuperate	Diatomaceous Earth, Essential Oils	Dual-action (pest control & odor), pleasant scent	Can be pricey for large coops, scent may be overpowering for some
Innovation Pet’s Coop Flakes	Probiotics, Wood Shavings	Encourages healthy bacteria, good for deep litter method	Not an instant deodorizer, works over time
Spring Chicken Zen House Coop Refresher	Lemongrass and Eucalyptus	Great scent, natural insect repellent, highly-rated (4.5 stars)	Scent is not for everyone
Manna Pro Coop-N-Compost Odor Neutralizer	Natural Zeolite (Clinoptilolite)	Highly effective at absorbing ammonia and moisture	Smaller size for the price ($12.99 for 1.75 lbs)
Eaton Pet & Pasture Roost Refresh	Hemp & Herb Blend	Top-rated option (4.8 stars), highly effective and natural	Most expensive on the list ($34.99)
Alzoo Fresh My Coop Deodorizer	Evergreen Scent	Very high-rated (4.9 stars)	The 26.6 oz size may be too small for larger coops

A Deeper Look: Sweet PDZ vs. Stall-Dry vs. Stall Powder

For a more granular comparison of three popular stall deodorizers, let’s look at their composition and daily cost based on independent testing data.

• Sweet PDZ is a powerful choice for odor control, with a daily cost ranging from $0.37 to $0.57. Its primary active ingredient is clinoptilolite zeolite, which is excellent at neutralizing and absorbing ammonia.
• Stall Dry, with a lower daily cost, contains a combination of diatomaceous earth (for moisture and pest control) and sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to help neutralize odors.
• Stall Powder is another effective option at a very low daily cost of $0.28. It is made from calcium carbonate, diatomaceous earth, and a refreshing mint scent.

An Important Safety Note: When choosing a product, it’s critical to read the label. For example, while Odor-No-More is a popular stall product, the manufacturer specifically states that it is “Not intended for use with poultry.” Always ensure the product is safe for use with chickens before applying it to their coop or run.

Money-Saving Tips for Deodorizers

• Bulk Purchasing Strategy: Many deodorizers like Sweet PDZ are significantly cheaper when purchased in larger “horse stall” quantities rather than chicken-specific packaging. Always check the ingredients to ensure you’re getting the same product for less.
• Price Comparison Update: As of September 2025, Spring Chicken products are on sale at Tractor Supply for $3 off their regular price, making them a very competitive option when compared to DIY solutions.

How to Choose the Right Product

When choosing a commercial product, understanding its key ingredients is crucial. For example, many of the best odor control products rely on zeolite.

This naturally occurring mineral has an exceptional absorption rate and a unique porous structure that allows for powerful ammonia binding. The primary component of zeolite used in these products is clinoptilolite, which acts like a sponge for ammonia molecules, trapping them and preventing their release into the air.

If you’re looking for a product that is safe for organic farming, check if it’s OMRI-listed (Organic Materials Review Institute), which means it’s approved for use in organic production.

• For Instant Odor Control: If you have an immediate odor problem, a product with a high concentration of zeolite like Sweet PDZ is an excellent choice. It’s scientifically proven to absorb ammonia and will provide a quick and lasting reduction in smell.As a cost-saving tip, Sweet PDZ’s Horse Stall Refresher contains the exact same ingredients (clinoptilolite zeolite) as their Coop Refresher, but is significantly cheaper per pound. The horse stall version often costs around $16.99 for a 25 lb bag, while the coop version is about $11.99 for a 10 lb bag, offering you approximately 60% better value for the same product.
• For Pest and Odor Control: Coop Recuperate is a great all-around option. The combination of diatomaceous earth helps manage mites and other pests, while the essential oils and moisture-absorbing materials tackle the smell.
• For the Deep Litter Method: Innovation Pet’s Coop Flakes and other probiotic-based products are perfect for jump-starting the composting process. They add beneficial microbes to their litter, which helps to break down waste more efficiently over time.

Having the right tools is just half the battle. A consistent, proactive cleaning routine is the key to preventing smells from ever taking hold.

How to Freshen Up a Chicken Coop – Regular Maintenance

The secret to a non-smelly coop is proactive maintenance, not reactive deodorizing. You shouldn’t need to apply heavy doses of deodorizer if you follow a consistent schedule.

Daily Tasks (5-10 minutes)

• Spot Clean: Use a poop scraper to remove droppings from under roosting bars. This is where most of the droppings accumulate overnight and is the single most effective daily action you can take.
• Check for Moisture: Look for any wet spots around the waterer and remove the soiled bedding immediately. Replace it with a handful of fresh, dry bedding.
• Ventilation Check: Make sure vents are not blocked by debris or spiderwebs, ensuring a constant flow of fresh air.

Weekly Routine (15-20 minutes)

• Bedding Rake: Use a garden rake to stir and aerate the bedding throughout the coop. This helps the top layer dry out and keeps the litter from compacting.
• Add Fresh Bedding: Add a thin layer of fresh pine shavings or chopped straw to the top of the existing bedding to provide a clean surface.
• Apply Deodorizer: Sprinkle your DIY or commercial deodorizer over the bedding, paying special attention to high-traffic areas.

Monthly Deep Clean (1-2 hours)

• Remove All Bedding: This is the most thorough cleaning. Remove all old bedding from the coop and run. I find a wheelbarrow and a flat shovel are essential for this task.
• Scrub Surfaces: Use a mild, non-toxic cleaner like the vinegar spray to scrub down roosts, nesting boxes, and the floor of the coop. Let it air dry completely before adding fresh bedding.
• Inspect for Pests: This is a great time to check for any signs of mites, lice, or other pests hiding in cracks or corners. For more on this, read our guide on mites and lice on chickens. You can also read about how to set up a chicken first-aid kit to be prepared for any health issues that may arise.

Seasonal Maintenance Schedules: A Quarterly Guide

Your cleaning needs will change with the seasons. By adjusting your routine, you can prevent problems before they start and keep your coop running smoothly all year.

Spring

This is the perfect time for a fresh start. If you’ve been using the Deep Litter Method through the winter, it’s time to empty the coop and harvest your compost. A full clean is essential.

• Transition from Deep Litter: Empty all the old, composted bedding from the coop. Use it in your garden to provide a nutrient-rich boost for your plants.
• Deep Clean: Give the coop a thorough scrubbing. Clean all surfaces, roosts, and nesting boxes.
• Pest Prevention: As the weather warms, pests like mites and lice become more active. Dust your chickens with food-grade diatomaceous earth and check the coop for signs of an infestation.

Summer

Summer heat and humidity can make odor problems worse. Increased moisture from spilled water and humid air can lead to a quick ammonia build-up. If you’re in a hot, humid climate like the Southeast, this is your most challenging season.

• Heat Stress Management: Ensure your chickens have plenty of fresh, cool water. Consider adding electrolytes to their water during the hottest days. For more on this, read what to feed chickens during a heatwave. For maximum ventilation, open all available vents, windows, and doors. You want to create as much airflow as possible to combat the heat and humidity. You can also consider adding a DeWalt battery-powered fan for additional air movement during heat waves.
• Increased Cleaning Frequency: You may need to spot clean more frequently, perhaps twice a day, to remove droppings before they can break down and release ammonia.
• Run Management: Keep the run as dry as possible. Consider adding extra sand or wood chips to areas that get muddy.

Fall

As the days get shorter and temperatures drop, it’s time to prepare for winter.

• Deep Litter Preparation: If you’re planning to use the Deep Litter Method for the winter, this is the time to start. Lay a fresh, thick base layer of bedding (at least 3-4 inches) to get the composting process started.
• Winterization: Check your coop for drafts and seal any gaps to keep the cold air out. Make sure there is still proper ventilation at the top of the coop to allow moisture and ammonia to escape.
• Pest Check: Before closing up the coop for winter, do one last thorough check for any pests that might want to hide out.

Winter

The biggest challenge in winter is moisture control. Poor ventilation can lead to a build-up of moisture from the chickens’ breath and droppings. You may also be wondering, do chickens get sick in the rain?

• Moisture Control: Ensure that your coop has adequate ventilation at the top, even when it’s cold. This allows moist air and ammonia to escape without creating a draft on your chickens. To achieve this, maintain vents placed high above perches for year-round natural ventilation, while keeping windows closed to prevent drafts that can chill your flock.
• Minimize Spills: Use a heated waterer to prevent freezing and reduce spills, which is a major source of moisture.
• Deep Litter Management: Continue to turn the deep litter regularly. The composting process will generate a small amount of heat that helps to keep the coop slightly warmer.

Troubleshooting Chicken Coop Odors: A Step-by-Step Guide

Can’t figure out why your coop still smells? Use this quick guide to pinpoint the problem.

1. Can you smell it from a distance?
   • YES: Your ammonia levels are likely dangerously high. Go to Step 2.
   • NO: The smell might be from something else. Check for broken eggs or stagnant water.
2. Is your coop dry and well-ventilated?
   • YES: Move to Step 3. The problem is likely your bedding or population density.
   • NO: Problem Found! Address moisture and ventilation first. Clean up wet spots, check for leaks, and ensure air can flow freely through the coop.
3. Are you using the right bedding?
   • YES: Move to Step 4. Your bedding is likely fine, but something else is off.
   • NO: Problem Found! Switch to a highly absorbent, carbon-rich bedding like pine shavings or chopped straw. Avoid hay.
4. Is the coop overcrowded?
   • YES: Problem Found! Overcrowding is a primary source of odor. Consider expanding your coop or rehoming some of your flock.
   • NO: Your daily cleaning routine may not be enough. Increase the frequency of your spot cleaning and bedding aeration.

Specific Odor Problems and Solutions

How to Get Rid of Rotten Egg Smell in Chicken Coop

This isn’t an ammonia issue; it’s a sulfur problem. It often comes from broken eggs in the nesting boxes. I’ve found that the best solution is to get to the source.

Check all nesting boxes and corners of the coop daily. If you find a broken egg, remove it immediately and replace the bedding in that spot. If the smell persists, it might be due to a dietary imbalance, so consider a change in feed.

The sulfurous smell can also come from stagnant water in troughs or puddles, as anaerobic bacteria can thrive in these conditions. Ensure your chickens have access to fresh, clean water at all times.

How to Keep a Chicken Run From Smelling – Moisture Management and More

A smelly chicken run is a clear sign of moisture issues. Rain is a chicken keeper’s nemesis when it comes to odors, as a wet run is a breeding ground for ammonia-producing bacteria. For more on this, check out our guides on predator-proofing 101 and what is the best predator deterrent.

• Covered Runs: One of the most effective solutions is to cover your chicken run. This prevents rain from soaking the ground, keeping the litter and ground dry and inhospitable to bacteria.You can use a waterproof tarp, corrugated metal, or clear plastic panels to create a roof. A covered run also provides welcome shade in the summer and a dry spot for your chickens during inclement weather.
• Proper Drainage: In addition to covering the run, ensuring proper drainage is critical. I’ve found that a gravel underlayment works wonders.You can excavate the top few inches of the run’s soil and add a layer of gravel. This allows water to drain away from the surface, preventing puddles and mud.Top it with a layer of sand or wood chips to create a soft, dry surface for your flock to scratch in.

How to Get Rid of Chicken Poop Smell in Yard

For free-ranging chickens, the solution is rotation. If you can, rotate your flock between different areas of the yard. This allows one area to rest, recover, and naturally break down waste before the chickens return.

A simple rotation schedule can be as easy as dividing your yard into two or three sections and letting the chickens use one for a few weeks before moving them to the next.

For areas that have become particularly soiled, you can rake and sprinkle your deodorizing powder. The baking soda and lime will help with pH neutralization and the ground will quickly recover.

The best long-term solution is to treat your chicken’s waste as a valuable resource. You can start a compost pile with their droppings mixed with leaves, straw, and other yard waste. This will transform the odor-causing manure into a rich, natural fertilizer.

What to Do When Your Neighbor’s Chicken Coop Smells

This is a delicate issue. The first step is to approach your neighbor with kindness and a helpful spirit. You can gently bring it up in conversation, perhaps by mentioning that you’ve been working on your own coop’s odor problem and have found some great resources.

You can offer them some of your DIY deodorizer or a link to a helpful guide like this one. If the smell is a persistent nuisance, you can then move on to checking local ordinances, but always try the friendly approach first.

While proper cleaning is your best defense, you might be curious about supplements and other additives. Let’s discuss some common ones.

Advanced Odor Control: Supplements and High-Tech Solutions

Using Probiotics to Reduce Odor at the Source

While adding deodorizers to the coop addresses odor after the fact, using probiotics is a proactive approach that tackles the problem at its source: your chickens’ digestive systems.

By supplementing your chickens’ feed with beneficial bacteria, you can improve their gut health, which leads to more efficient digestion. The result is droppings that contain less undigested nitrogen, which is the primary source of the ammonia-producing bacteria.

Simply add a small amount of a poultry-specific probiotic powder to your chickens’ daily feed. This is an excellent, long-term strategy for a healthier flock and a cleaner coop. For a deeper look at chicken nutrition, read our guides on the best feeding schedule and a comprehensive guide to chicken feeding.

Advanced Coop Accessories for a Smell-Free Environment

Sometimes, a traditional approach isn’t enough, especially in severe cases or very humid climates. For these situations, a few advanced accessories can make all the difference.

• Automatic Waterers: Spilled water is one of the main culprits for moisture buildup in a coop, leading to an increase in microbial activity and the subsequent ammonia smell.Automatic waterers, which use a nipple or cup system, prevent water from being spilled on the bedding.This keeps the coop drier and reduces the need for frequent spot-cleaning and bedding replacement.
• Air Purifying Systems: For those who want the most advanced ventilation options, a simple fan may not be enough. An air purifying system designed for livestock or small spaces can actively filter the air, removing ammonia particles and other harmful gases.These systems work by drawing in the contaminated air and passing it through a filter that traps odors before circulating the fresh, clean air back into the coop.This is an effective high-tech solution for maintaining a consistent, healthy environment for your flock.

Lime and Alternative Treatments

Pro Tip: Never use hydrated lime or quicklime! These are highly caustic and can cause severe chemical burns to your chickens’ feet and respiratory systems. Stick to non-caustic agricultural lime.

Does Lime Help with Smell in Chicken Coop?

Yes, but you must be careful.

Only use agricultural lime (calcium carbonate), also known as “barn lime.” It’s non-caustic and can help with pH neutralization and odors.

Never use hydrated lime or quicklime, which are highly alkaline and can cause chemical burns to both you and your chickens’ respiratory systems and feet.

Sprinkle agricultural lime sparingly on the ground or in the run, not in the coop itself where the chickens will be in constant contact with it. A thin layer, applied once a month, is all you need to help with odor control in the run.

A good application rate is approximately 1 cup of agricultural lime per 10 square feet.

What Does Bicarbonate Soda Do to Chicken?

As we discussed, bicarbonate soda (baking soda) helps neutralize odors when used in the coop bedding. But you might also hear about it being added to drinking water. In that context, a small amount can help chickens cope with heat stress, but it’s not a common practice and should be used with caution as it can affect mineral absorption if overused. It is not a daily supplement.

Sometimes, supplements can help with chicken health, which in turn can lead to a cleaner environment. Let’s explore that.

Is Apple Cider Vinegar Good for Chickens?

Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) is a popular supplement for chicken health. It’s an easy-to-digest acidic tonic that can help maintain a healthy gut and immune system.

It can also help acidify the water, which makes it less hospitable for certain bacteria. While it’s great for your flock, I would not recommend it as a coop cleaner because the sweet, vinegary smell can attract flies.

As a testament to responsible use, veterinarian Dr. Will Winter notes, “I have never found any study that showed any value to apple cider vinegar specifically, and several studies…showed that broiler (meat) chickens grew slower when fed 0.5% apple cider vinegar or formic acid vs. pure water.”

This highlights the need for a balanced approach and not viewing ACV as a “miracle cure.”

• How to Use: Add about 1-2 tablespoons per gallon of your chickens’ drinking water once or twice a week.

How Much Baking Soda Should I Put in My Chicken’s Water?

This is a specific question that requires a careful answer. Generally, you would only add baking soda to your chickens’ water to combat heat stress, and the dosage is quite specific. A safe amount is around a quarter teaspoon per gallon of water, but this should only be done during extreme heat and not as a routine supplement. Always provide an alternative source of plain water, as some chickens may not like the taste.

If you don’t have baking soda on hand, don’t worry. There are plenty of other natural and effective alternatives.

What to Use Instead of Baking Soda for Chicken

If you’re looking for an alternative to baking soda for your coop deodorizer, or simply want to try something different, here are a few options:

• Zeolite Granules: This is the main ingredient in many commercial products. It’s a natural mineral with an amazing ability to absorb and lock away ammonia molecules.Unlike baking soda, which neutralizes the odor, zeolite traps it at a molecular level, making it incredibly effective for long-lasting odor control.
• Activated Charcoal: A great odor-absorbing agent, though it can be a bit messy.It works similarly to baking soda, but is more porous and can trap a wider range of odors. It can be mixed with your bedding or placed in a small container in the coop.
• Probiotics/Enzyme Cleaners: These products use beneficial microbes to consume the odor-causing bacteria. They are excellent for long-term odor control and promoting a healthy coop environment, though they may not provide an instant fix.They work by creating a competitive environment where odor-causing bacteria can’t thrive.

Frequently Asked Questions on How to Keep a Chicken Coop From Smelling

Conclusion

By understanding the root causes of odor, implementing a consistent cleaning routine, and leveraging natural solutions like the deep litter method, you can effectively manage smells in your chicken coop. Remember, a fresh-smelling coop isn’t just a matter of convenience; it’s a matter of health for your flock. A proactive approach to moisture control, ventilation, and bedding management will create a happier, healthier environment for your chickens and a more enjoyable experience for you.

For more information on general chicken health, consider these guides:

• Why is my chicken lethargic?
• How to treat pasty butt
• How to treat a sneezing chicken
• The ultimate guide to chicken molting season

Sources

• Pitesky, M., & Schneider, A. (2022). The Chicken Whisperer: tackling ammonia levels in backyard flocks. The Poultry Site. https://www.thepoultrysite.com/articles/the-chicken-whisperer-tackling-ammonia-levels-in-backyard-flocks
• The British Hen Welfare Trust. (2024). The Deep Litter Method Explained. https://www.bhwt.org.uk/blog/health-welfare/deep-litter-method-chickens-what-is-it-and-why-is-it-so-good-for-your-girls/
• University of Tennessee Institute of Agriculture. (2025). Poultry Litter Management (Inside and Outside the House). https://utia.tennessee.edu/publications/wp-content/uploads/sites/269/2025/01/D247.pdf
• Winter, W. (2024). ACV For Poultry. The Vinegar Guys. https://www.vinegarguys.com/home/benefits-dosage-feeding/acv-for-poultry