Mites and Lice on Chickens: A Complete Guide to Identification & Treatment

Discovering pests in your flock is every chicken keeper’s nightmare, but don’t panic. Mites and lice on chickens are incredibly common external parasites that can cause stress, anemia, and a noticeable significant drop in egg production. They are a nuisance, but they are also completely manageable with the right plan. As Dr. Robert Porter, a veterinarian at the Elko Veterinary Clinic, notes, these pests are “a natural part of life when it comes to chicken keeping.”

This guide will provide you with a clear, step-by-step plan to identify the pest, treat your chickens and their coop effectively, and prevent future outbreaks. As a long-time poultry keeper, I’ve dealt with my fair share of pests. This guide is built on proven methods to get your flock healthy again.

Identification – Do My Chickens Have Mites or Lice?

Before you can start treating an infestation, you need to know what you’re up against. Here’s how to tell if your chickens have a problem and how to figure out if it’s mites or lice. As the UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine puts it, “Heavy infestations can result in poor poultry health, reduced growth and egg production, and even the death of birds.”

How to Tell if Your Chickens Have an Infestation: Key Signs

If you’re noticing your chickens aren’t acting quite right or their feathers look messy, it’s time to do a quick check. Look for these signs of an active infestation:

Behavioral Clues (How Chickens Act if They Have Mites)

• Restlessness & Over-preening: Your chickens might be constantly restless, scratching at themselves, or spending an excessive amount of time trying to preen their feathers.
• Lethargy: Because mites feed on blood, a heavy infestation can lead to anemia, causing a chicken to become pale, weak, and lethargy.
• Reduced Egg Laying: The constant irritation and stress can cause a sudden and significant drop in egg production.
• Changes in Dust Bathing: They may be dust bathing more than usual in an attempt to get rid of the pests, or less than usual if they feel too sick to do so.

Physical Signs on the Chicken

• Dirty-Looking Vent Feathers: The area around the chicken’s vent area may look matted, dirty, or discolored. You might also notice clusters of eggs (nits) or lice cemented to the base of the feather shafts, especially under the vent.
• Feather Loss: You may see feather loss, especially on the back and around the vent, from constant scratching and biting. Chickens can literally pull out their own feathers trying to get relief from the constant irritation.
• Pale Comb & Wattles: A very pale comb and wattles are a key sign of anemia caused by blood-sucking mites. This is a critical indicator of a heavy mite burden.
• Visible Pests or Eggs: The most direct sign is seeing the pests themselves. This is where you can tell the difference between mites and lice.

Mites vs. Lice: Knowing Your Enemy

Knowing the difference is key to effective chicken lice treatment and chicken mites treatment, as they require slightly different approaches.

Feature	Chicken Mites	Chicken Lice
Appearance	Tiny, round, often dark red or black (after feeding).	Larger, straw-colored, flat and elongated.
Movement	Move quickly. Red Roost Mites hide in crevices and on roosting bars during the day.	Move slowly. Live their entire life on the chicken.
Food Source	Blood-sucking parasites.	Feed on dead skin and feather debris.
Location	Found on the skin, especially around the vent area.	Found on feather shafts, often in clusters near the vent area.
Life Cycle	Short, around 7 days. Can lay eggs in the coop, making it critical to treat the coop and the birds simultaneously.	A longer cycle. The entire life cycle takes place on the chicken.

Meet the Pests: A Deeper Dive

Your treatment plan will be much more successful if you understand the unique behaviors of each of these common culprits.

The Red Roost Mite (Dermanyssus gallinae): The Nighttime Vampire

Behavior: These are the most difficult pests to control because they spend their days hiding in the coop. They only crawl onto the birds to feed on blood at night, which is why coop treatment is so critical for a successful outcome.

Detection: Check the ends of your roosting bars and look under loose bark or in small joints for clusters of mites. They look like tiny black or red pepper flakes. A classic trick is to wrap white tape (sticky side out) around the roosts; in the morning, you’ll see mites stuck to the tape if you have an infestation.

The Northern Fowl Mite: The 24/7 Pest

Behavior: Unlike the Red Mite, the Northern Fowl Mite lives its entire life on the chicken. This makes direct treatment of the bird the most important step for this type of infestation.

Detection: These mites cause the classic “dirty vent” look. Their feces and egg clusters stain the feathers around the vent area a grayish-black.

The Scaly Leg Mite: The Hidden Deformer

Behavior: This pest is entirely different. The mite burrows under the scales on a chicken’s legs and feet. It feeds on the skin tissue and excretes waste, causing the scales to lift and the legs to become thick, crusty, and deformed.

Treatment: The best way to treat these mites is to suffocate them. First, soak the legs in warm, soapy water to soften the crusts. Gently pat the legs dry, then coat the legs and feet in a thick, suffocating ointment like petroleum jelly or a natural wax-based balm. You must repeat this every few days for several weeks to smother the mites as they hatch.

The Treatment Plan: A Two-Pronged Attack

Found Pests? Do This Now: A 5-Step Emergency Checklist

1. Identify the Pest: Check the vent and feather shafts for lice; check the coop crevices for mites.
2. Choose Your Treatment: Select a poultry dust (like Permethrin or DE) for immediate application.
3. Treat Every Bird: Dust all chickens thoroughly, focusing on the vent area.
4. Clean the Coop: Immediately remove all bedding and plan a full coop clean-out within 24 hours.
5. Mark Your Calendar: Set a reminder to repeat the treatment in 7-10 days to break the life cycle.

CRITICAL SAFETY WARNING: Always read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for any treatment. Pay close attention to dosage, application methods, and stated egg withdrawal periods. Wear gloves and a mask when applying dusts or sprays.

Step 1: Treat the Chickens

This is your first priority. You need to kill the pests living on the birds to stop the immediate threat.

Understanding Treatment Products: Dusts vs. Sprays vs. Systemics

• Dusts (Permethrin, DE, Sulfur): These are the most common and effective treatments for getting to pests that live directly on the birds. Dusts are best for getting the treatment directly to the chicken’s skin under dense feathers. To apply, lift the feathers against the grain and puff the powder directly onto the skin. This ensures maximum contact with the pests.
• Sprays (Permethrin, Elector PSP): Sprays are excellent for treating the entire coop, as they can easily get into cracks and crevices where pests hide. They can also be used on birds, but you must ensure you are saturating the skin, not just the feathers, for it to be effective.
• Systemics (Ivermectin): A systemic treatment, like Ivermectin, is a product that is absorbed into the chicken’s bloodstream, killing any parasites that feed on its blood. When used for chickens, it’s considered an “off-label” product. This means it is not officially approved by the FDA for that specific use in poultry, and therefore all dosage and egg withdrawal times are based on veterinary experience, not a manufacturer’s label. You must strongly advise consulting a veterinarian before using a systemic treatment.

How to Get Rid of Chicken Mites Naturally

• Diatomaceous Earth (DE): This is a popular natural option for chicken mites treatment. It’s a fine powder made from the fossilized remains of diatoms. It works by physically damaging the pest’s exoskeleton, causing them to dehydrate and die. CRITICAL: Only use food-grade DE, and always wear a mask when applying it, as the dust can be harmful to your lungs. Apply it liberally to the coop and dust the chickens by hand, focusing on the vent area. As the Oregon State University Extension Service notes, dusts like DE are “very effective for bird self-treatment of mites.”
• Sulfur Dust: Another organic option, sulfur dust can be applied to the chicken’s skin as a natural pest control.
• Garlic/Herbal Sprays: Many chicken keepers use sprays made with garlic juice or essential oils as a deterrent. These can help, but they are generally not potent enough to kill an active, heavy infestation on their own.

Step 2: Treat the Coop (This is Non-Negotiable!)

This step is especially critical for Red Roost Mites that live in the coop and only come out at night to feed. According to the University of Kentucky’s Entomology Department, “Control of Red Roost Mites is directed at cracks and crevices in the shelter and roosting area because this is where these mites spend much of their time.”

Here’s how to properly clean and treat your coop:

1. Remove all bedding: Take out all the straw, pine shavings, and other bedding from the coop. Seal it in a trash bag and dispose of it immediately to prevent re-infestation.
2. Scrape & Clean: Scrape down all surfaces, including the roosts and nesting boxes, to remove all droppings and debris. Pay special attention to corners and cracks.
3. Wash it Down: Wash the coop with soap and water, scrubbing all surfaces. You can also use a pressure washer for a deep clean if the coop is sturdy enough.
4. Dry & Treat: Let the coop dry completely. Then, apply a treatment (like a Permethrin spray or food-grade Diatomaceous Earth) into all cracks, crevices, and the ends of the roosting bars.
5. New Bedding: Once the treatment is complete and dry, add fresh, clean bedding.

Bottom Line: A successful treatment requires consistency. You must treat both the birds and the coop at the same time and perform a follow-up treatment to break the full life cycle of the pests. Once you’ve treated the existing problem, you can focus on preventing future outbreaks.

Prevention is the Best Medicine

The best way to deal with mites and lice on chickens is to stop them before they even become a problem. Regular coop management and proactive measures can keep your flock pest-free.

Proactive Coop Management

• Regular Cleaning: A clean coop is your best defense. Do a deep clean at least once a month, removing all old bedding and scrubbing surfaces.
• Sunlight is Your Friend: Mites, especially Red Roost Mites, hate sunlight. Whenever possible, let your coop air out with the doors open on a sunny day.
• Dust Bath Station: Provide a large, dry area where your chickens can dust bath. Chickens use this natural behavior to suffocate parasites. You can add food-grade DE or sulfur dust to their dust bathing area for extra protection.

How to Create the Ultimate Dust Bathing Station

A dust bath is a natural way for chickens to keep themselves clean and free of parasites. By creating a dedicated station, you give them a safe and effective place to do this.

• Container: Any shallow, open container will work, such as a large rubber feed trough, a kiddy pool, or even a recycled car tire.
• The Recipe: Create a simple “recipe” for the perfect dust bath mix to maximize effectiveness.
  • Base (60%): Use fine, dry dirt or construction-grade sand.
  • Absorber (30%): Mix in food-grade Diatomaceous Earth (DE). This will dehydrate any mites or lice that come in contact with it. Remember to wear a mask when handling DE.
  • Deterrent (10%): Add natural insect repellents like wood ash (from untreated wood only) or dried herbs such as lavender, mint, and oregano.
• Location: Place the station in a dry, sheltered spot in the run, preferably out of the rain.
• Seal Cracks: Physically block entry points for pests by sealing any large cracks in the coop’s walls or flooring.

The Importance of Quarantine

• Quarantine New Birds: This is a non-negotiable step to prevent introducing pests to your healthy flock. Quarantine any new chickens for at least 30 days. This allows you to monitor for any signs of illness or parasites, including Scaly Leg Mites, and treat them away from your main flock. The University of Kentucky Entomology Department strongly recommends that you “Examine birds carefully before purchase for signs of mites or lice. Do not buy obviously infested birds. Assume all birds that you purchase are infested.”

Human Health & Safety Concerns

Can Humans Get Mites and Lice from Chickens?

This is a very common question, and the answer is both yes and no.

• Chicken Lice: No, you cannot get chicken lice from your birds. They are species-specific parasites and cannot survive or reproduce on humans. They will simply die off.
• Chicken Mites: Yes, but only temporarily. Northern Fowl Mites and Red Roost Mites can bite humans, causing itchy red bumps, but they cannot reproduce or sustain themselves on human blood. As the MSD Veterinary Manual confirms, while bird mites “will also bite people they cannot survive on or infest them.” The good news is they are not a long-term threat to you or your home.

How to Get Rid of Chicken Mites on Humans

If you’ve been bitten by bird mites, the fastest way to get rid of them is to shower in hot water and wash all your clothes and bedding in hot water. To prevent them from entering your home in the first place, change your clothes and shoes before going inside after handling your chickens. Bird mites can temporarily live in your bed, but they won’t establish a permanent infestation. If the itching and irritation persists, consult a doctor.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Conclusion

While discovering mites and lice on chickens is stressful, remember that these pests are completely manageable. The key to success is a two-part treatment plan that focuses on both the bird and the coop. By being vigilant and following a clear, step-by-step approach, you can eliminate the infestation and get your flock back to being healthy, happy, and pest-free.

Disclaimer: I am a poultry enthusiast, not a veterinarian. The information in this article is for educational purposes only. Always follow product labels and consult a qualified veterinarian for health diagnoses and treatment plans for your flock.