Australian Poultry Feed Brands: Complete Guide to Barastoc, Laucke Mills & Red Hen (2025)

Keeping a flock of backyard chickens in Australia is a truly rewarding job. You get fresh eggs, fantastic garden helpers, and plenty of feathered personalities. But when you walk into the feed store, the choice can be overwhelming. You’re faced with different brands, colourful bags, and terms like “pellet,” “crumble,” and “mash.” You just want the best for your chooks, but it’s hard to know where to start. Many new owners aren’t sure about the easiest chicken breed for beginners or the common mistakes first-time chicken keepers make (hint: feed is a big one!). You’ve probably seen the big names: Barastoc, Laucke Mills, and Red Hen. Which one is right for your flock?

You’re asking the right questions. Choosing the right food is the single most important decision you’ll make for your chickens’ health, happiness, and egg production. This guide is here to help. We’ll compare the top Australian Poultry Feed Brands and break down exactly what’s in their products. We will look closely at Barastoc, Laucke Mills, and the ever-popular Red Hen range to help you find the best feed for your Australian backyard flock.

Understanding Australian Poultry Feed Requirements

Before we compare brands, it’s important to know why your chickens need a special diet. It’s not as simple as throwing out some old bread and kitchen scraps (though they love those as a treat!). Modern chickens are bred for high performance, and they need a nutritionally balanced diet to stay healthy.

Why Australian Chickens Need Specific Feed Formulations

Australian conditions present unique challenges. Our long, hot summers can cause severe heat stress. You’ll see this as panting (called gular fluttering), holding their wings away from their bodies, and looking pale and lethargic.

During heat stress, a chicken’s appetite plummets. When they eat less, they get fewer nutrients. Because of this, many feeds are formulated for Australian conditions with a high density of vitamins and minerals. This means your chooks get all the goodness they need, even if they’re eating a bit less in the summer heat.

The Australian feed industry is a serious business. The Australian poultry feed market specifically reached USD 4,358.20 million in 2024 and is projected to reach USD 5,888.33 million by 2033. This growth means companies are investing heavily in science and nutrition to create the best possible food for our livestock, including backyard chickens.

Minimum Nutritional Requirements for Laying Hens

So, what should you look for on the feed bag? For a healthy laying hen, the numbers are key. Laying hens need about 16-18% protein and high calcium. This complete guide to chicken calcium needs is vital for eggshell quality. Here’s a simple table of the minimum protein requirements and other essentials.

What is the Best Feed for Egg Laying Hens?

The best feed for egg laying hens is a “complete layer feed” with a protein content of 16-18% and a high calcium content of 3.5-4.0% to support strong eggshell production. A feed in pellet, crumble, or hybrid form is superior to a grain-only mix, as it prevents selective feeding and ensures a balanced diet.

In short: Australian feeds are built to deliver concentrated nutrition, especially for laying hens who need high protein and a huge amount of calcium.

Now that we know what our chickens need, let’s look at who provides it.

What is the Best Chicken Feed in Australia? A Top Brand Comparison

The ‘best’ chicken feed in Australia depends on your flock’s life stage, but for most backyard laying hens, the best feed is a complete, pelleted or hybrid-pellet feed with 15-18% protein and 3.5-4.0% calcium, such as Laucke Mills Red Hen Layer or Barastoc Golden Yolk.

Now for the main event. Let’s look at the major players you’ll find in Australian feed stores. We’ll focus on the three brands you’re most likely to see: Barastoc and Laucke Mills (who make Red Hen).

Barastoc: Complete Nutrition for Backyard Flocks

• Who are they? Barastoc is one of Australia’s most well-known feed brands. It’s owned by Ridley Corporation, a major player in the Australian feed market.
• Product Range: Barastoc has a huge range, including “Barastoc Layer,” “Golden Yolk,” and various feeds for chicks, pullets, and meat birds.
• Key Benefits: Barastoc is known for its convenience and reliability. Their feeds are “compound feeds,” meaning every pellet or crumble is nutritionally identical. This stops picky chickens from only eating their favourite bits. As their website says, they ensure flocks get “all the nutrients they need, day in-and day-out”.
• Barastoc Golden Yolk Nutritional Analysis:
  • Protein: 15.0% minimum
  • Fat: 2.5% minimum
  • Fiber: 10.0% maximum
  • Calcium: 3.8-4.0% minimum
  • Added Selenium: 0.1mg/kg
  • Vitamin E: 10mg/kg
• Best For: Hobby chicken keepers who want a simple, reliable, and “complete” feed that’s easy to find at most produce stores.
• Keywords: Barastoc chicken feed, Australian poultry feed brands.

Quick Facts: Barastoc Golden Yolk

• Manufacturer: Barastoc (Ridley Corporation)
• Protein: 15.0% minimum
• Calcium: 3.8-4.0% minimum
• Form: Pellet or Crumble
• Best For: General backyard layers needing a reliable, complete feed.

Laucke Mills: Premium Quality from the Barossa Valley

• Who are they? Laucke Mills is a proud, family-owned Australian company. They’ve been manufacturing feed in the Barossa Valley, South Australia, for generations. They have a strong reputation for quality.
• Product Range: Their poultry range is famous. It includes Chick Starter, Pullet Grower MP, Home-Lay, and the very popular Red Hen range.
• Key Products:
  • Red Hen Se17enteen & Red Hen Free Range Layer: These are the brand’s star products. They are distinct formulations, one with 17% protein and one with 15%.
  • Showbird Breeder MP: This is a higher-spec feed with 17% protein, designed for breeding poultry and show birds. Veterinarians commonly recommend Showbird Breeder MP for breeding flocks, as it provides higher specification nutrition with 17% protein and 4% calcium in a micro-pellet format that’s ideal for small breeds.
  • Home-Lay: A budget-friendly option for backyard layers that still provides complete nutrition.
• Nutritional Analysis (Red Hen Free Range Layer): A typical bag shows a minimum of 15% protein, 3.0% fat, 10% max fiber, and a minimum of 4% calcium.
• Keywords: Red Hen chicken feed, Red Hen Layer, Red Hen 17, Laucke Mills, Australian poultry feed brands.

Quick Facts: Laucke Mills (Red Hen)

• Manufacturer: Laucke Mills (Family-owned)
• Key Products: Red Hen Free Range Layer, Red Hen Se17enteen, Showbird Breeder MP
• Protein: 15% (Layer) or 17% (Se17enteen/Showbird)
• Calcium: 3.8% – 4.3% (depending on product)
• Form: Grain & Micro-Pellet blend (Red Hen) or Micro-Pellet (Showbird)
• Best For: Keepers who want a premium grain-blend or a high-spec breeder feed.

Other Major Players

While Barastoc and Laucke are giants, you’ll see other names, too.

• Ridley Corporation: As mentioned, Ridley owns Barastoc but also operates other stockfeed names. They are one of the largest feed manufacturers in Australia.
• International Brands: You may also see brands like Nutrena and Purina in some feed stores, which offer comparable layer feeds.

In short: You’ve got reliable all-rounders like Barastoc and premium heritage brands like Laucke Mills, which both offer excellent, widely-available feeds.

Let’s do a deep dive into the most-asked-about product of the lot: Red Hen.

Deep Dive – Red Hen Layer Feed Analysis

Because it’s one of the most popular and asked-about feeds, let’s take a closer look at Laucke Mills’ Red Hen Layer.

What Are the Ingredients in Red Hen Chicken Feed?

Red Hen chicken feed contains a balanced mix of cereal grains (like wheat, barley, and corn), protein sources (like soybean and meat meal), fats, and a comprehensive vitamin and mineral supplement, including calcium (limestone) and essential amino acids.

Here is a more detailed breakdown of the ingredients you’ll find on the label:

• Grain Base: Wheat, triticale, barley, oats, rice, peas, lupins, lentils, beans, and corn.
• Protein Sources: Soybean, canola, sunflower products, meat meal, and blood meal.
• Fats & Binders: Fat, molasses, limestone, di-calcium phosphate, sodium bicarbonate, and salt.
• Amino Acids: Lysine, methionine, threonine, tryptophan, isoleucine, and valine (the building blocks of protein).
• Vitamins: A, D3, E, K, B1, B2, B6, B12, niacin, folic acid, biotin, and choline.
• Minerals: Calcium, phosphorus, sodium, chloride, cobalt, copper, iodine, iron, manganese, molybdenum, selenium, and zinc.

This long list is a good thing! It shows the feed formulation is complex and designed to cover all your hen’s needs.

Red Hen Layer vs Red Hen 17: Understanding the Difference

This is a common point of confusion! Red Hen Layer typically guarantees 15% minimum protein, while Red Hen Se17enteen (also called Red Hen 17) guarantees 17% minimum protein. Both formulations contain 4.0-4.3% calcium minimum for strong eggshells. The Red Hen Free Range Layer variant contains 3.8% minimum calcium.

Does Red Hen Chicken Feed Come With a Wormer?

This is a critical point for flock health: No, the standard Laucke Mills Red Hen Layer feed is a medication-free diet option and does not contain a wormer.

This is a positive feature, not a drawback. It means the feed is a medication-free diet option suitable for all times, and it gives you, the owner, complete control over your flock’s medication schedule. To worm your chickens, you must purchase a separate, dedicated worming product (often a liquid or powder like Piperazine) that is added to their water or feed for a specific, limited period, usually twice a year.

Where to Buy Red Hen Feed (Availability at Petstock & Suppliers)

Laucke Mills products, including the Red Hen range, are widely distributed across Australia. Yes, you can find ‘Red Hen chicken feed at Petstock’, as they are a major national retailer.

It is also stocked at many independent rural produce stores, agricultural suppliers, and feed specialists, such as Dine-A-Chook. Availability of specific bags (like the 15% vs. 17% protein) may vary by store, so it’s always good to call your local supplier ahead of time.

In short: Red Hen is a popular, nutrient-dense, and widely available feed. Its key features are the grain/pellet mix and the high calcium and protein levels.

Now, let’s put these brands head-to-head in a simple table.

Comprehensive Feed Comparison Table

Here is a quick-glance table comparing some of the most popular feeds available in Australia. (Note: Prices are categories, as exact dollars change).

When reading this table, remember to focus on the protein and calcium levels for your laying hens.

In short: This table makes it easy to compare the “big three” nutrients. As you can see, most quality layer feeds sit in a very similar range.

But buying the feed is only half the battle. Let’s look at how to feed your chickens properly.

Feeding Guidelines and Best Practices

Buying the right feed is step one. Using it correctly is step two. Here are answers to common feeding questions, expanded with actionable tips. This is all part of a proper feeding schedule for backyard chickens.

How to Safely Switch Your Chickens to a New Feed

Never switch your chickens’ feed overnight! Their digestive systems are sensitive, and a sudden change can cause stress, diarrhoea, and stop them from laying.

Follow this 7-10 day transition plan:

• Days 1-3: Mix 75% old feed with 25% new feed.
• Days 4-6: Mix 50% old feed with 50% new feed.
• Days 7-9: Mix 25% old feed with 75% new feed.
• Day 10: Feed 100% new feed.

Watch them closely during this time. If you notice any issues, slow the transition down.

Is 20% Protein Too High for Chickens?

No, 20% protein is not too high for growing chickens (0-18 weeks) and meat birds, but mature laying hens only require 16-18% protein. Feeding layers 20% protein unnecessarily increases costs and can be hard on their kidneys. The only time you might consider a higher protein feed (like 17%) for layers is during their annual moult to help with feather regrowth.

Are Grain or Pellets Better for Chickens?

For most backyard layers, pellets or crumbles are better than grain-only mixes because they prevent selective feeding and guarantee a nutritionally complete diet in every bite. Hybrid feeds like Red Hen, which combine pellets and grains, offer a good compromise by ensuring nutrition while encouraging natural foraging.

Australian veterinarians typically recommend pellet-based feeds like Barastoc Golden Yolk or grain-pellet blends like Red Hen Layer over pure grain mixes, as pellets prevent selective feeding and ensure chickens receive balanced nutrition.

The 90/10 Rule for Feeding Chickens

This is a great rule of thumb to follow:

• 90% of your chicken’s diet should come from their “complete” layer feed.
• 10% of their diet can be “treats” like kitchen scraps, scratch grains, and garden greens.

Following this rule ensures they get their essential nutrients first. Giving too many treats is like letting a child fill up on lollies before dinner—they won’t eat the healthy food they need.

The Grit vs. Oyster Shell Debate: Why They Need Both

This is one of the most important things new chicken keepers must learn. Grit and Oyster Shell are NOT the same thing. While we cover it here, you can read more about why chickens need both grit and oyster shell in our detailed guide.

• Grit (Insoluble): This is a small, hard stone (like granite chips). Chickens don’t have teeth, so they swallow grit and it stays in their gizzard (a muscular organ). The gizzard uses the grit to grind up whole grains and feed. Grit is for DIGESTION.
• Oyster Shell (Soluble): This is a pure calcium supplement. It dissolves in the chicken’s digestive system and provides the massive amount of calcium needed to form a strong eggshell. Oyster Shell is for EGGSHELLS.

Your free-range birds might find their own grit, but cooped birds must be given it. All laying hens should have oyster shell in a separate dish (not mixed in the feed) so they can eat it when they need it.

What Chicken Feed to Stay Away From?

• Pure grain mixes: As a main food source, they are not balanced for laying hens.
• Feeds without proper calcium: Any feed with less than 3.5% calcium is not suitable for laying hens.
• Medicated feeds: Do not give medicated “chick starter” to laying hens.
• Expired or mouldy feed: Never feed your chickens anything that smells off, is damp, or has mould. This can be toxic.
• Ruminant feed: This is a serious one. Many feed labels, including Red Hen’s, state: “DO NOT FEED TO CATTLE, SHEEP, GOATS, DEER OR OTHER RUMINANTS”. This is a legal requirement to prevent the spread of diseases.

In short: Best practice involves a slow feed transition, choosing a pellet or hybrid, understanding the 90/10 rule, and providing both grit and oyster shell separately.

Getting this right is your first line of defence against health problems.

Health, Nutrition and Common Problems

A good diet is your first line of defence, but it’s still smart to know the warning signs. Let’s look at what happens when nutrition goes wrong.

What is the Healthiest Thing to Feed Chickens?

The healthiest thing to feed chickens is a high-quality, complete commercial layer feed with 16-18% protein and 3.5-4.0% calcium. This should make up 90% of their diet, supplemented by clean water, insoluble grit, free-choice oyster shell, and limited (10%) healthy scraps and greens. For a broader look, see our complete guide to chicken feeding.

Signs of Nutritional Problems in Your Flock

Your chickens’ bodies will tell you if their feed isn’t right.

1. Protein Problems (Feather Pecking): Are your chickens pecking each other’s feathers? This is often a sign of a protein deficiency or just boredom. Poor feather condition after a moult (annual feather loss) also points to low protein.
2. Calcium & Vitamin D Problems (Weak Eggs & Legs): This is the most common one. You’ll see:
   • Thin-shelled, “rubbery,” or shell-less eggs.
   • A hen that becomes “egg-bound.”
   • In serious cases, a hen will have wobbly legs or be unable to stand. This is because her body has pulled all the calcium from her bones to make eggshells, and her skeleton can no longer support her.
3. Vitamin A Deficiency: This can look like a respiratory illness. You may see cheesy, white discharge in the eyes and nostrils, and watery eyes.
4. Vitamin E Deficiency: This is less common but very scary. It’s called “wry neck.” The chicken’s head will be twisted, and it will have no coordination.

What is Not Okay to Feed Chickens?

It is not okay to feed chickens toxic foods like avocado, chocolate, onions, or raw dried beans. You must also avoid any food that is mouldy, spoiled, or high in salt or sugar.

• Avocado (especially the skin and pit)
• Chocolate
• Raw, dried beans
• Onions (in large amounts)
• Green potato skins
• Mouldy or spoiled food
• Anything very salty or sugary

Disclaimer: This information is for educational purposes. If you have serious health concerns about your flock, please consult a licensed veterinarian.

Superfood Additions for Chickens

If you want to give your flock a boost (as part of the 10% rule!), these are great:

• Leafy Greens: (Kale, spinach, silverbeet) for vitamins.
• Pumpkin Seeds: (Especially raw) are thought to have natural deworming properties.
• Garlic: (Crushed in their water) is a great immune system booster.
• Sunflower Seeds: (In moderation) are a fatty treat they love, especially in winter.

Remember, these are supplements, not replacements for their complete feed. You can learn more about the best chicken treats that boost egg laying in our other guide. Some advanced keepers also explore fermenting chicken feed for better health, which can improve digestibility.

In short: Health is holistic. It starts with a quality complete feed, but you must also provide the right supplements (grit/shell) and know the warning signs of a deficiency.

Now, let’s tie this back to our unique Australian environment.

Australian-Specific Considerations

Keeping chooks down under has its own set of rules, from managing heat to observing the legal requirements for keeping chickens in Australia.

Feeding in Australian Climate Conditions

• Heat Stress: As mentioned, chickens eat less in the heat. Choosing heat-tolerant breeds for Australian conditions is a great first step. To help your current flock:
  • Provide extra shade over their feeder and waterer.
  • Add a second, wide water source (like a shallow pan) they can stand in.
  • Add a few ice cubes to their waterer in the middle of the day.
  • Consider adding a poultry-specific electrolyte to their water on 35°C+ days.
  • It’s also vital to know what to feed chickens during a heatwave and general tips for managing heat stress in Australian summers.
• Cold Weather: In colder southern states, your chickens will burn more energy to stay warm. You can supplement their diet with a little extra scratch grain or corn in the afternoon (not morning) to fuel their “internal furnace” overnight.
• Seasonal Egg Production: It’s normal for hens to slow or stop laying in winter (less daylight) and during their annual moult (when they lose and regrow feathers).

How to Store Your Chicken Feed Properly

You just spent good money on a 20kg bag of feed; don’t let it spoil!

1. Get it off the ground: Store bags on a pallet or shelf, not the concrete floor, which can draw moisture.
2. Make it airtight: The best storage is a metal, airtight rubbish bin or feed drum. This keeps feed fresh and, most importantly, keeps out rodents and insects.
3. Keep it cool and dry: Store it in a shed or garage, out of direct sunlight. A hot shed can degrade the vitamins in the feed.

Store feed in cool, dry conditions away from direct sunlight. Heat can degrade fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, E, K) in the feed, reducing its nutritional value. A sealed metal bin in a shaded area maintains feed quality longest.

Never use feed that has been contaminated by rodents or has any sign of mould.

Australian Feed Industry Standards

As we’ve covered, the Australian poultry feed market is world-class, with major manufacturers like Ridley Corporation, Cargill, and Riverina following strict quality standards. This means you can be confident that the Australian poultry feed brands you buy are safe and formulated based on good science. The feed additive market alone is expected to see significant growth, showing the industry’s focus on nutrition.

Where to Buy Australian Poultry Feed Brands

You have plenty of choices:

• Local rural produce and feed stores (the best place for expert advice).
• Major retailers like Petstock and national rural suppliers.
• Some feed mills, like Laucke Mills, may sell direct to the public or have lists of local stockists on their websites.

In short: Managing the Australian climate and storing feed correctly are just as important as the brand you buy.

Let’s talk about the final factor: cost.

Cost Analysis and Value

Chicken feed is your biggest ongoing expense, so let’s talk about cost. This is separate from the initial setup costs for Australian chicken keepers, but it’s the largest part of your ongoing budget.

Comparing Feed Costs: Is Expensive Feed Worth It?

It’s tempting to buy the cheapest feed, but this is often a mistake.

• Price per Kilo: Compare the price per 20kg bag. You’ll find brands like Red Hen and Barastoc are “mid-range,” while specialist or organic feeds are more expensive.
• Cost per Egg: A cheap, low-nutrient feed (like a basic “grain mix”) might seem like a saving, but if your hens lay fewer eggs or have health problems, you’re not saving money. A $35 bag that GIVES YOU 30 eggs a week is better value than a $25 bag that GIVES YOU 15 eggs.
• Feed Efficiency: Premium feeds are more “feed-efficient,” meaning the chicken’s body can use more of the nutrients, leading to less waste (and healthier poops!).

In our experience, paying a little more for a high-quality feed like Red Hen 17 or Barastoc Golden Yolk pays for itself in better egg production and healthier birds. When budgeting for your backyard flock, remember that quality feed is an investment, not just an expense.

How Feed Quality Affects Egg Production and Health Costs

• More Eggs: A nutritionally balanced diet is the #1 factor for consistent egg laying.
• Fewer Health Problems: Good feed prevents issues like egg-binding and calcium deficiency, saving you stress and potential vet bills.
• Better Egg Quality: The vitamins in the feed (like marigold extract) are what give you those beautiful, bright golden yolks.

How to Save Money on Chicken Feed

• Proper Storage: Stop wasting money on feed that’s spoiled or eaten by rats. A good metal bin pays for itself.
• Reduce Waste: Use a “treadle” or “no-waste” feeder. If you use an open-top feeder, don’t fill it to the brim. Chickens will “rake” the feed with their beaks, spilling it all over the ground.
• The 90/10 Rule: Supplementing with safe kitchen scraps and garden greens (up to 10% of their diet) is a great way to “stretch” your feed bag.
• Bulk Buying: If you have the storage, ask your local produce store if they offer a discount for buying multiple bags.
• Calculate Your Needs: Use a chicken feed calculator to accurately predict your monthly costs and avoid over-buying.

In short: The cheapest bag is rarely the best value. You’ll save more money in the long run by buying a quality feed and storing it properly.

For those who love the science, let’s go one step deeper.

How to Calculate Poultry Feed Formulation & Requirements

This section is for those who want to understand the science behind their feed bag.

Understanding Feed Labels and Guaranteed Analysis

A “Guaranteed Analysis” is the legal promise from the manufacturer of the minimum or maximum amount of a nutrient in the bag. Let’s use Red Hen Free Range Layer as an example:

• Protein (min): 15.0% (It must contain at least this much)
• Fat (min): 3.0% (At least this much)
• Fiber (max): 10.0% (It cannot contain more than this)
• Calcium (min): 4.0% (At least this much)
• Linoleic Acid (min): 1.3%

You’ll also see a list of ingredients, usually in order from most to least. This helps you see what the main ingredients are (e.g., wheat and corn vs. lower-cost fillers).

What is Feed Formulation? (And Why You Shouldn’t Do It)

“Feed formulation” is the complex science of combining raw ingredients (like corn, soy, limestone, and vitamin pre-mixes) to create a nutritionally complete and balanced diet. This is done by animal nutritionists using software to meet exact requirements for dozens of nutrients.

While you might see recipes online, it is not recommended for backyard keepers to formulate their own feed. It is almost impossible to get the balance of amino acids, vitamins, and minerals correct without professional equipment and knowledge. Using a complete commercial feed is safer, easier, and ultimately healthier for your flock.

How to Calculate Your Flock’s Feed Requirements

This is the “calculation” you should do:

• An average laying hen eats about 120-150 grams of feed per day.
• Let’s use 140g as an average.

Simple Formula: (Number of chickens) × (140g) × (30 days) = Monthly Feed Requirement (in grams)

Example for a flock of 6: 6 chickens × 140g = 840g of feed per day. 840g × 30 days = 25,200g (or 25.2 kg) per month.

This tells you that a flock of 6 will eat just over one 20kg bag of feed per month.

When to Switch Feed Types (Life Stage Feeding)

Using the right feed at the right time is critical.

1. Chick Starter (0-8 weeks): High protein (18-20%). Medicated or unmedicated.
2. Grower/Pullet Feed (8-18 weeks): Medium protein (16-18%). Lower calcium.
3. Layer Feed (18+ weeks): Medium protein (16-18%), high calcium (3.5-4.0%).

You must switch to layer feed when your hens start laying. Do not feed high-calcium layer feed to young, non-laying birds, as it can damage their kidneys.

Common Chicken Feed Myths (Debunked)

• Myth 1: “Chickens can live on kitchen scraps alone.”
  • Fact: They can’t. They will become malnourished very quickly. Scraps are a treat, not a meal (the 90/10 rule).
• Myth 2: “Grit and oyster shell are the same thing.”
  • Fact: As we covered, this is a dangerous myth. Grit is for digestion; oyster shell is for calcium. They need both, separately.
• Myth 3: “All grain mixes are bad.”
  • Fact: Pure grain mixes are bad as a complete feed because they are unbalanced. But hybrid feeds like Red Hen (grain + pellet) are a great balanced option.

In short: Reading the label and understanding the life-stage of your bird are key. And don’t fall for common myths!

Let’s wrap it all up.

Choosing the Best Australian Poultry Feed for Your Flock

Choosing the best feed from all the Australian poultry feed brands comes down to your flock’s needs.

• For convenience, reliability, and great value, Barastoc (like the Golden Yolk) is a fantastic, trusted choice.
• For a premium, Australian-family-owned option that chickens love, Laucke Mills’ Red Hen Free Range Layer (or Red Hen Se17enteen for a protein boost) is one of the best and most popular products on the market.

The bottom line is to choose a “complete layer feed” from a reputable Australian chicken feed manufacturer, check the label for 16-18% protein and at least 3.5% calcium, and follow the 90/10 rule.

Most importantly, remember to provide clean water, insoluble grit, and oyster shell as separate “must-haves.” Your chickens will thank you with delicious, new eggs for years to come.

Disclaimer: This article provides educational information about poultry feed options. It is based on publicly available information and industry data. Always consult qualified professionals or a veterinarian for specific health concerns regarding your poultry. We may earn a commission from links to retailers.

Oladepo

Oladepo Babatunde is the founder of ChickenStarter.com. He is a backyard chicken keeper and educator who specializes in helping beginners raise healthy flocks, particularly in warm climates. His expertise comes from years of hands-on experience building coops, treating common chicken ailments, and solving flock management issues. His own happy hens are a testament to his methods, laying 25-30 eggs weekly.